Yesterday afternoon at Miracle Mile’s Ace Gallery, art came alive. But not in the space’s standard, sculpture and wall hanging sense. Bur rather with the spring 2012 collections from 14 of Britain’s most important avant-garde fashion designers, who were each brought to L.A. by the British Fashion Council as part of their London Show Rooms trade initiative.
The likes of Marios Schwab, Peter Pilotto and Roksanda Ilincic each showed their full spring 2012 lines in a three-day program designed to pair the under-the-radar labels with the stylists, press and VIP clients who call L.A. home. And most of the designers — many of whom are already established fashion world darlings — have never before shown their entire collections on our fair coast.
“I come to L.A. about once a year,” said designer Peter Pilotto, whose expertly cut, abstract-stamped silhouettes are favored by Michelle Obama and Rihanna. “But we’ve never had the whole collection here. So this is great, they’re perfect for L.A.!” To say that Pilotto’s colorful skirts, laser-cut multi-tonal dresses and kaleidoscopic party frocks are perfect for L.A.’s vibe is an understatement. Especially with the wet suit-esque zippers that Pilotto and partner Christopher De Vos utilized in many pieces for spring.
On the other side of the vast main showroom, Mary Katrantzou’s colorful fish-printed sheath dresses looked right at home, too. The 28 year-old Greek designer may not yet be a household name. But with fans including Kiera Knightly, countless Vogue mentions and a Topshop collaboration under her belt, that’s likely about to change. Especially with the opportunity to come to Los Angeles this week and reach even more of the A-listers that ultimately make or break a line’s commercial success.
“This is a wonderful opportunity,” Katrantzou said as she proudly showed off her bold, mixed-use prints that, this season, hinted at nature in a most unexpected way. “To be able to come here and meet stylists and members of the press who maybe didn’t make it to London for Fashion Week is really incredible.” But Kantrantzou, who has never before been to L.A., isn’t planning a week of all work. “I was told I have to go to Abbot Kinney and eat at Gjelina,” she said. “So I absolutely plan on doing that.”
Looking around at mouthwatering Marios Schwab gowns that combined the perfect amount of dark glamour and playful shine and a table full of Nicholas Kirkwood heels that made this reporter briefly consider a life of crime, it was completely clear that Los Angeles has become a major player in the world of bona fied, tried and true fashion talent — regardless if said talent originates here or not.
“These designers just feel so “L.A.,” said Gemma Ebelis, a spokeswoman for the British Fashion Council, while standing in a back room that included polished offerings from heritage-brand-in-the-making E. Tautz as well as smoothies and unlimited champagne. She also noted the similarities between London’s impressive art and design community with our own. And then she hit the nail on the head of why emerging British fashion is currently having its major moment despite world economic woes.
“While other designers played it safe, ours had nothing to lose.”
Photos: At top, a model poses with Marios Schwab and his spring 2012 collection. Middle, Peter Pilotto and a model clad in “his favorite” spring outfit. Bottom, Nicholas Kirkwood and his ridiculously amazing shoes.
