In the waning seasons of the IMG/Smashbox shows, things had gotten pretty ugly. Fewer and fewer legitimate brands signed up to show their collections, and the two companies were self-sponsoring brands (such as Grey Ant and Jeremy Scott) to jolt the whole shebang out of a years-long slump.
When really, perhaps they should have been hunting down more underground brands — rejecting Ed Hardy-style big brands — and recouping the lower fees by staging the shows in a single (cheap) building.
That’s the formula Brady Westwater and Mike Vensil, organizers of the new Concept fashion shows at downtown’s Spring Arts Tower, have employed. And despite the same ‘ole hassles at the door and shows starting an hour late, the series has, thus far, been decidedly palatable.
Tuesday’s schedule featured a mix of old and new names in L.A. fashion. First up was relative newcomer Jen Awad, who showed a collection that mixed futuristic darkness with 1940s Vargas Girl-style glam. The results? Mixed.
We’re not so sure we would have put the pearl fringe on half the looks (especially the Western jacket). But we applaud her daring — and actually liked some of the more literal ’40s looks, including an array of colorful swingin’ sock hop numbers featuring cut-out sweetheart necklines.
Next up was longtime L.A. brand MartinMartin, which showed its regular goth-lite fare — but made it almost unbearable by repeating looks interminably. The show seemed like it would never end, really. And while we digged the Kawakubo-style man skirt years ago, it feels super played now (kilts would have been better). Still, there were some bright spots, including a number of witchy-poo maxi dresses and a fetching denim ensemble that nipped the guy model in all the right places.
Rounding out the shows was The Battalion, which I was really looking forward to, then felt a little disappointed by. Faux fur vests, jackets and trim were paired with all manner of jersey tops and jeans-style skinny pants. And again, there was too much repetition of looks.
Upstairs, Valerj Pobega showed a gorgeous, hand-dyed collection of silk dresses and shifts, while around the corner leather brand Skin Graft showed mannequins dresses in black leather jackets, right next to a pair of real severed pig’s heads (dripping blood). Darn. Just when we thought Fashion Week was getting some class….
Photo: Models backstage at Jen Awad.
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