Rodarte, L.A.’s most celebrated fashion export, abandoned its gothy spider-web aesthetic for Fall 2010 with a more upbeat show inspired by the Southwest, Mexican arts and crafts and Native American culture.

The change in direction was welcome – but the presentation felt like it was more about showmanship than clothes. The heavily styled looks obscured the shapes and silhouettes of nearly every piece: pant legs were roped with shoestring, tops were mired in scarves and cowl-necks. Yes, some slick separates could be distilled – including thin tribal-printed pants featuring a gathered hip section – but I found the endless layers of contrasting prints distracting.

Still, nothing could diminish the elegance of the long white dresses that marched out near the finale. Affecting retro wedding cakes (or 20s Chanel dresses) with layers of lace, swags and countless other accents, the diaphanous gowns reminded us why the Pasadena-based designers burn so brightly in the fashion firmament.