There’s a clarion call sounding from the runways of the menswear shows in Paris: Wake up, because things just got interesting. The age of the skinny suit (merci beaucoup, Thom B. and Hedi S.) has truly given way to a more layered and textured approach.

Rick Owens’ three-quarter length jackets flung over flowing tunics, leather opera gloves and ankle-length trousers—encouraging the dandy of the twenty-teens to play with proportion. Comme des Garcons’ Rei Kawakubo made avant-garde experimentation all the more accessible, with baggy shorts clipped to rolled pants.

Raf Simons, easily one of the most salivated over designers in Paris by the fashion media corps, earned his keeps yet again, with slim trousers and such novelties as a nylon corset-like panel to the front of an otherwise conservative suit; there was even a ribbed, red top and skirt for the especially daring (paging Marc Jacobs).

Finally, Adam Kimmel took inspiration from the neo-Cubist George Condo to add a shot of color and a whole lot of whimsy into a wardrobe of cardigans, double-breasted suits, velvet jackets and knitwear. His disfigured masks, as shown with his ensembles, redefined the term “statement pieces” for an entirely new and unpredictable decade. —Jeremy Allen

Fall 2010 runway photos, from left: Rick Owens, Comme des Garcons, Adam Kimmel; Raf Simons, top right.